27.01.10

Futuristic Haute Couture

Clicking through the latest Haute Couture-shows that were just shown in Paris the last few days, I found one big theme influencing or dominating most of them - futurism.
Of course it's coming from completely different influences. Sometimes the styling of the models plays a big part in making it futuristic instead of classical - at Chanel for example.






Karl Lagerfeld said his inspiration came overnight like "an electronic flash in my head at five o'clock one morning. Silver and pastel". It was the first time in Lagerfeld's career that he did a collection without using any black or navy. Although the collection looks most space ageish and futuristic of all, Karl Lagerfeld declines that. He doesn't believe "in avant-garde clothes for a future that will never happen. "To him "fashion is always now." The only question is, how many guys today would be willing to wear that silver suit he designed for his muse Babtiste Giaconi to whatever occasion... I know I would.
I just read the press text on that collection. It sais that the wedding dress and the cape alone caused an amount of 1300 hours of work - totally lunatic! But comprehensible when it takes you three hours to handstitch that "hidden" seam for one meter of the fabric...






When Riccardo Tisci took the job as head of design in the house of Givenchy in 2005 was rather anxious doing couture. He didn't want to dig into the past of his house and build his collections that way. Five years later he's way more confident in the former unfamiliar territory.
After going through the archives as well as being inspired by makeup artist, photographer, and art director Serge Lutens, he came up with this interpretation of a strong, erotic Parisienne woman.
Especially the crazy hats and the sparkly jumpsuits give that collection a futuristic outcome.






Alexis Mabille went for a more geometric, color-blocking look. His bi-colored dresses and pantsuits cut the models in two parts opticalli.






Anne Valérie Hash made a completely different approach to it all. She wanted to take something old and very personal and transform it. So she wrote letters to different people (famous ones) and this is what she ended up with: a pair of pajamas from Alber Elbaz, Tilda Swinton's Vivienne Westwood tee, Jean Paul Gaultier's Breton shirt, Pete Doherty's frogged drummer-boy jacket, a veil from Diane Pernet, a Chanel jacket from Daphne Guinness, and a spencer belonging to Charlotte Rampling. The result of the transformation - using here excellent tailoring skills and piles of matte, textured paillettes - you can see above.






Giorgio Armani's inspiration for Armani Privé is way more obvious- it's the moon. He sais he always needs a hook to get the work on a collection startet. And this time the moon was it - as he wanted "something romantic and dreamy, far away from our everyday life. Something less harsh".
The lunar references become obvious in the luminescent fabrics, in the curvi cutting, embroideries made to look like the craters of the moon and hairdos shaped like crescents.



(all pictures burrowed from style.com)

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