Designer Look of the day

(burrowed from style.com)

Balmain - Spring/Summer 2010
The pagoda shoulders are still there and all in all you can absolutely sense the resemblance to the last two collections of the house. But why not?! The Balmain-shoulders were copied by every chain store around the world within the last year. So were their jeans. Why change something so extremly successful abruptly? So Christophe Decarnin makes slow steps towards a change in appearance...
Christophe's models still have that disco thing going on. This time though they look like the city, in which the disco they party at is located, has been bombed down. And they are the only survivors - ready to strike back!


Designer Look of the day

(burrowed from style.com)

After raving about Donatella's fabulous menswear collection earlier this week, today it's the ladies turn! The youthful spring/summer 2010 RTW-collection is fun. The plastified minidresses and the over the top killerheels are just perfect for young hollywood lolitas or simply for every common alley cat... No, honestly I like them. Especially after holding the dress and the shoes you can see above in my very own hands - we ordered them for a cover shoot. Great materials, great optic - me likey!

Review - Collections I adore

This is my new rubric. As I want to make the Designer Look of the day more contemporary (meaning only collections from 2010 - spring/summer or fall/winter) I'm going to write aboute older collections that I believe to be great and outstanding.
This is the first one - Ready-to-wear-Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière for spring/summer 2008.

(all pictures burrowed from style.com)

"Florals? For spring?! Groundbreaking..." One of my favourite lines from The devil wears Prada, that is completly traceable. Every spring the motto seems to be "Same procedure as every year". Flowers and floral prints everywhere you look - on clothes, accessories, shoes - in womenswear, for girls and even in menswear. Always a bit boring, because they are never really new - there is no new aspect to it.
That changed when Nicolas Ghesquière showed the fashion crowd how it should be done two years ago. What he did was like a rebirth for flowers and florals - definitely groundbreaking!
The dessins he found in the Balenciaga archive. The shapes he made up. The armor shaped jackets and skirts made from quite stiff materials created a new silhouette. The fantastic boots made the models look like warriors - ready for the fight for good taste! Simply great!
Unfortunetly the mainstream was not open enough to adopt that runway appearances - high street stores obviously didn't believe in a successful adaption for the mass market... A real pity!


Favourite song of the day...

...New York by Paloma Faith.

I couldn't stop listening to it since I heared it for the very first time this morning.

I love the do of Paloma - so much volume... I think it's absolutley fantastic!

(burrowed from http://userserve-ak.last.fm)


Designer Look of the day

(burrowed from style.com)

Viktor & Rolf for Fall 2008 - one head-to-toe V&R-Look that shows that they can do head-to-toe perfectly - without making the model look ridiculous. Unfortunately they often do it they other way, causing an irritated feeling in the observer. But one thing you can always be sure when looking at a Viktor & Rolf collection: stunning single pieces!


Futuristic Haute Couture

Clicking through the latest Haute Couture-shows that were just shown in Paris the last few days, I found one big theme influencing or dominating most of them - futurism.
Of course it's coming from completely different influences. Sometimes the styling of the models plays a big part in making it futuristic instead of classical - at Chanel for example.

Karl Lagerfeld said his inspiration came overnight like "an electronic flash in my head at five o'clock one morning. Silver and pastel". It was the first time in Lagerfeld's career that he did a collection without using any black or navy. Although the collection looks most space ageish and futuristic of all, Karl Lagerfeld declines that. He doesn't believe "in avant-garde clothes for a future that will never happen. "To him "fashion is always now." The only question is, how many guys today would be willing to wear that silver suit he designed for his muse Babtiste Giaconi to whatever occasion... I know I would.
I just read the press text on that collection. It sais that the wedding dress and the cape alone caused an amount of 1300 hours of work - totally lunatic! But comprehensible when it takes you three hours to handstitch that "hidden" seam for one meter of the fabric...

When Riccardo Tisci took the job as head of design in the house of Givenchy in 2005 was rather anxious doing couture. He didn't want to dig into the past of his house and build his collections that way. Five years later he's way more confident in the former unfamiliar territory.
After going through the archives as well as being inspired by makeup artist, photographer, and art director Serge Lutens, he came up with this interpretation of a strong, erotic Parisienne woman.
Especially the crazy hats and the sparkly jumpsuits give that collection a futuristic outcome.

Alexis Mabille went for a more geometric, color-blocking look. His bi-colored dresses and pantsuits cut the models in two parts opticalli.

Anne Valérie Hash made a completely different approach to it all. She wanted to take something old and very personal and transform it. So she wrote letters to different people (famous ones) and this is what she ended up with: a pair of pajamas from Alber Elbaz, Tilda Swinton's Vivienne Westwood tee, Jean Paul Gaultier's Breton shirt, Pete Doherty's frogged drummer-boy jacket, a veil from Diane Pernet, a Chanel jacket from Daphne Guinness, and a spencer belonging to Charlotte Rampling. The result of the transformation - using here excellent tailoring skills and piles of matte, textured paillettes - you can see above.

Giorgio Armani's inspiration for Armani Privé is way more obvious- it's the moon. He sais he always needs a hook to get the work on a collection startet. And this time the moon was it - as he wanted "something romantic and dreamy, far away from our everyday life. Something less harsh".
The lunar references become obvious in the luminescent fabrics, in the curvi cutting, embroideries made to look like the craters of the moon and hairdos shaped like crescents.

(all pictures burrowed from style.com)


Designer Look of the day

(burrowed from style.com)

I have never been instantly reminded of a specific women's collection when looking at a menswear collection, but today that changed. Versace Fall/Winter 2010/11 reminds me so much of the women collection of Balenciaga for Spring/Summer 2010. Nevertheless I adore it- both of them... Donatella showed my favourite menswear collection so far this year! The skinthight leather trousers, the massive boots, the jewellery and the extraordinary leather jackets are just fabulous! And they feel really new - not another lame reinterpretation of something that we have seen over and over and over again!
If I hit the jackpot in the lottery next Saturday, Versace can be sure to sell every single item of this collection at least once...

(burrowed from style.com)

Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week - summary part2

Another show I visited last Thursday was Mongrels in Common. This one I liked pretty much. For a Fall/Winter collection it felt pretty summerly at times, but it's nevertheless feminine and cosmopolitan!
The fabrics varied from summerly fine silk to menswear fabrics made from wool and cotton. Mongrels also work with a special fabric called Nanai-Leather. It's an environmental friendly and robust leather, produced by Nanai in Germany, which was used in skirts, hotpants, belts and various bags. Most styles werde dominated by black and grey, but the accents of apricot, beige and metallic black/red brought the ladylikeness into the game! I especially loved the fact, that they focussed on the waist and the shoulder. Most garments featured shoulder pads or shirring.

Sascha Gaugel's collection for Hausach Couture was all black and all organza and duchesse. Sounds sad and draggy, but the presentation was much fun! This was based on the performance of a drag queen who first crawled along the catwalk on all fours - in an outfit most suitable for the next video of Lady Gaga) and then rocked the turn-tables.
Lots of the clothes shown are perfectly wearable, in my opinion- at least if you could do without the black bodies,
capricious cat-accessories as well as excentric crescent-shaped headpieces.

(all pictures burrowed from www.mercedes-benzfashionweek.com)


Designer Look of the day

(burrowed from style.com)

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci - Fall/Winter 2010/11

I love the trouser skirt/leggings styles - luckily H&M Trend gave me the possibility to get one of those four months ago, already...
Seeing it now reminds me to wear it more often - cause men in skirts and leggings are hot - haha. And if you're looked at in a strange or hostile way, you can always shout at that person: "That's Givenchy sucker!"